Carl´s magic hydragas pump
This pump and its use is only recommended for people who fully understand
the suspension system of the car. Each work at the suspension is dangerous
without enhanced knowledge of mechanical and hydraulic systems and the efforts
of the original design of the car !
IT IS OF UTMOST IMPORTANCE THAT ANY INDIVIDUAL WORKING ON THE HYDRAGAS SYSTEM
IS AWARE OF THE HIGH PRESSURE IN THE SYSTEM AND TAKES ALL AND ANY PRECAUTIONS
TO AVOID INJURY OR IMPLEMENT FAULTS TO THE HYDRAGAS SYSTEM. NO RESPONSIBILITY
IS ACCEPTED FOR ANY SUGGESTIONS MADE HERE. YOU USE THIS INFORMATION AT YOUR
OWN RISK WHEN PROPERLY HANDLED THE PROCEDURE IS TOTALLY SAFE AND WILL ALLOW
YOU TO MAKE ADJUSTMENTS TO RIDE HEIGHT AND OTHER SUSPENSION WORK EASIER.
Here it is. I know it looks incredible but it works ! The single parts should
cost you not more the about 40 GBP.
Fitting and testing the Pump Unit
PREPARING FOR ASSEMBLY
Each material lists show the parts required to build
this device, and should be just about all that is needed for the task.
Some work still has to be done, such as getting threads on the brake tubes
and inside the cut down pressure tube on hydraulic jack. The design of
your pump depends on availiability of the single parts.
Connector to the hydragas system should be a low loss valve. Means the
flow should be regulated with an extra needle that opens or closes the
- Empty all oil from the
jack and dispose of properly.
- Put jack in a vise (box clamp) and screw off top .
This will release the outer tubing and show
inner pressure cylinder.
- Only the part of the jack with empty inner tube will
be used. The inner tube (diam. approx. 30 mm ) is threaded into base.
Remove this inner tube and keep it for later works.
- Now only the base of jack is left. Dismantle all parts
and clean with spirit. Watch out for the springs, small steel balls
and rubber seals.
- Now there should be no parts left attached to the
cast jack base.
3 small holes (approx. 3 to 4mm diameter) can be seen
at the bottom rim in cast part. These are as follows
1- outlet for safety pressure,
2- inlet to pump housing ,
3- return fluid from system when valve on jack is opened.
(Check where the holes lead to by using a small wire)
- Thread these with a inside M4 or M5 thread, as possible.
(If the small holes touch
already the large thread, then glue the pipes into the holes)
- Thread 3 brake pipe tubes with outside M4 or M5 thread,
- Clean and join tubes into jack base. Use Loctite,
(the best is for hydraulic work) to get it tight and seal.
- The long 30 mm diameter tubing is now
cut down to approx. 35 to 40 mm in length and threaded inside with R3/4
- The brass end stop or any other
reducing joint is fitted with one extension and same thread as on
brass end stop is made inside tubing. (suggestion
is R3/4' to R1/8')
30 mm diameter tubing in the jack base . Again use Loctite to get
- Flush with spirit and blow with compressed air to
get itclean and dirt free.
- Now all the other parts as the pump spindle and valves
etc. can be put back again.
- Connect the 1
m long hydraulic hose and clamp well.
- Connect the plastic hose and t-bars so now all three
tubes has one common inlet /outlet, this is the long clear hose to bottle.
- At the other end of hydraulic hose fit a connector
with a clamp, tap, T-bar,
acetylene meter and finally
a connector and clamp to the truck
- The outer threaded
portion of that hose is cut away only the nipple part is used to
mate with onboard threaded part on car. (hydra-unit connector)
- Keep the threaded
cutaway part .It is threaded with inner M4 and a small M4 screw
can be used to plug this. It will be used in testing and when pump is
not in use to avoid leakage.
- Now the pump system should be ready
IT IS OF UTMOST IMPORTANCE THAT ANY
INDIVIDUAL WORKING ON THE HYDRAGAS SYSTEM IS AWARE OF HIGH PRESSURE IN
THE SYSTEM AND TAKE ALL PRECAUTIONS TO AVOID INJURY OR IMPLEMENT FAULTS
TO THE HYDRAGAS SYSTEM. NO RESPONSIBILITY IS ACCEPTED FOR ANY SUGGESTIONS
MADE HERE. YOU USE THIS INFORMATION AT YOUR OWN RISK
WHEN PROPERLY HANDLED THE PROCEDURE
IS TOTALLY SAFE AND WILL ALLOW YOU TO MAKE ADJUSTMENTS TO RIDE HEIGHT
AND OTHER SUSPENSION WORK EASIER.
- Fill system with spirit. I used 'Carburettor Spirit'
- the one to use in winter to get rid of water in fuel system. Easily
obtainable in 0,5 L bottles at any petrol station.
- Fill the pump housing and close the valve at the jack
- Pump steady and let spirit re-circulate into the bottle.
After some strokes all air should be out of system .
- Now close the nipple at the outlet with the cutaway
brass part with the threaded plug.
- Pump slowly and see pressure rising .
- When it reaches 35 Bar, open up the safety valve with
a screwdriver and adjust it to 'slightly before leaking'.
- Pump again and check that it opens at approx . 35 to
- Close the tap handle at the meter end.
- Leave the system with pressure for a minute.
- Check for leaks .
- Open tap and some drop in pressure will be seen.
- Now release the pressure slowly by opening the valve
at jack base. Pressure should drop to zero.
- Note any air coming out and repeat the above a few
- The system check is now complete and if all is well
empty the spirit and refilled with the green stuff.
Go to [Building] [Using] [L-0
Pump Unit] [L-1] [L-2]
[L-3] [L-4] [Technical
(c) Carl G.B. 16.11.99 edited by Dieter Koennecke and
spell checked by Tony Smith
or to my MGF home site www.MGFcar.de
© 1999 - 2009 Dieter Koennecke