cylinder head repair by Valter at the K-Engine with VVC
Report from Valter about head works (VVC) to the MGCARS BBS 22 June 2005
Valter, Lisbon, vnoivofernandes
After 4 months my saga is over.
My F is running again. Top down motoring is so much fun!
What I did is NOT an easy DIY. But it is feasible with some skills, top tools, K series engine technical manual (ABSOLUTELY necessary), nice jacks, garage space and a friend wishing to help.
I'll try and share some of my experiences with you. I'm sure I will forget many things, but I've got loads of pictures and you are always free to pose questions.
First thing to do is remove the head, following instructions on the manual. The key is: do as much as you can outside the car. That means head should be removed and installed as much complete as possible. Access to engine bay is just your worst nightmare! Several tips that will ease this job:
- You won't need to remove
the inlet manifold. Only the plenum and air filter are necessary to be
Then I started dismantling
the head to remove the valves. Head bolts were in perfect condition and
so was the head gasket. I changed the the plastic locating dowels for
the new stainless steel ones. I removed all valves and used paste grinding
If you don't have the tool (like me) to lock the combustion chamber floating liners, pay extra attention not to rotate the crankshat while head is off. This is critical!
When assembling the head I used the same bolts but renewed several gaskets (head gasket included :) ).
In my case front VVC mechanism
had to be taken apart. It was damaged on the surface that matches the
inlet pulley. Sadly I didn't take note of the small little "cubes"
positions. So I was left all the bits lying on the table... The VVC unit
internals are assembled starting outwards to inwards. That is, from the
pulley side to the camshaft side.
If don't have to do this, keep VVC mechanism always bolted to camshaft carrier. To change the VVC gasket you'll need to remove these bolts. If you do this, try not to separate VVC mechanism from inlet camshaft. I achieved this supporting the VVC casting on the hand and holding the camshaft vertical. This will prevent "cubes" to fall off from mechanism.
To synchronise front and back VVC units I engaged the control shaft on the same tooth on both VVC eccentric wheels. There's also a slot on both units that when aligned will prove if both are synchronised.
I also ported the waterways on the head as per David Andrews instructions. I opted not to port the head, because from what I've read the VVC head is a much superior design already compared to the MPI, so few things still to be done.
Installing the timing belt can be easier if you completely remove the bolt that runs on the slot of the belt tensioner device. This will allow the tensioner to rotate further down and you won't need to remove the inlet pulley to install the belt. Then install bolt and connect spring to pillar bolt. When everything is bolted together and torqued, including allen bolt (that is hard to access. In fact this part of the job can be desperating!) discard spring as it can break loose and cause tremendous negative effects to your engine. Mine was of course left there before by the "clever" MG dealer's mechanic...
Since all this I drove it for 400km and car revs happily to 7200 and pulls like it used to.
Hope this is of some interest.
|other of interest|
|Document from Rover SD1|
|deutsche Übersetzung der Rover SD1 Seite|
|(Martin Frerck) Bericht VVC Reparatur|